Don’t take that squirrel’s nutsI was organizing my pack the other day and I noticed that I’m a bit of a hoarder, a plastic bag and food hoarder, that is. The plastic bags come in handy and I’ve seemed to have collected 5, which are all stuffed in my pack. I mainly use them for my dirty clothes and for carting my personal items to the shower.
However, the real hoarding is with food. I’m like a squirrel storing nuts for winter. The route may pass through many small towns, but most do not have a cafe/bar or if they do, it’s closed. Occasionally, you come across a random vending machine, which is good for a snack. So, to prepare myself for walking several kilometers without food or services available, I stock up on food — nuts, trail mix, granola bars, crackers. If I get a free piece of fruit from a place I’m staying, I take it and keep it. There’s an orange in my bag from two mornings ago. Not sure when I’ll eat it. Maybe tomorrow. Or I might save it until winter. Among my personal items, I’m especially protective of - my money, passport, pilgrim passport, my favorite socks, and my food. Don’t take my food. I’m gonna eat it. Some day. Notes on Days 11 and 12 Day 11 — Salas to Tineo —20 km I’m not sure why I look at the elevation profile for this route. It should a climb at the beginning of the day but it was more like a gradual walk uphill with a few steep climbs here and there. The Wise Pilgrim app, while good, doesn’t really give you much information about the walk. It may alter you to a steep climb or descent but for the most part, you’re in the dark. I am, however, quite happy to have the app because I got a little lost. It was raining and my head was down. Because of this, I missed an arrow pointing me in the direction. Two other pilgrims were ahead of me and they missed it too. I tried finding a short cut to the path, but to no avail. I think I added 2 km to my day because of a missed turn. But after backtracking to the route, I ended up with a weird burst of energy. I think I could have jogged the last 4 km. I didn’t but part of me wanted to, you know, just see. I’m at the point on the route where we have a choice to make — either go up the Hospitales route to the top of the mountain or go the Pola route and stay in the valley. Most people want to do the Hospitales but the weather is rainy and windy now. The views from atop the mountain won’t be as grand, unfortunately. I guess the Pola route it is. My next incredibly steep climb will be on Thursday. Yippee. Day 12 — Tineo to Pola de Allande - 27 km Rain, sun, and cold — that was today. The rain would come down in spurts and then sun would come out and cold breeze would hit you. It was like Mother Nature couldn’t make up her mind today. At least it wasn’t raining all day, so I’ll take her moodiness. Today was the day where the group of pilgrims I’ve been seeing every day since Oviedo split off. About 2/3 of the pilgrims are braving the rainy, windy conditions and heading to a route called the Hospitales. It’s a route without any services for 20 km and takes you past a few hospital ruins from way back when. Pretty cool. I would have done it but I am part of the pilgrims who opted for the “Pola” route, walking down into the valley. We have a steep climb tomorrow morning, so I might be regretting my decision. We’ll see. Steep climb vs rainy cold weather on top of the mountain. Tough choice. I’m sure I’ll meet up with the other pilgrims in a couple of days. The town of Pola de Allande is quite cute despite the on and off rain showers. With a small river running through town, it’s picturesque and quaint. Be sure to check out photos on Instagram... it’s easier if I post them there rather than the blog. Link on the sidebar.
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Since leaving Oviedo, I’m officially on the Primitivo Route, which is the first or original pilgrimage to Santiago. Reported to be the path taken by Alfonso II of Asturias (mid 700s to mid 800s), the king left the capital of Asturias, Oviedo, and walked to Santiago.
Walking this route makes me wonder about King Alfonso and the first pilgrims. Often we are routed through small towns and along wooded paths with a stone wall lining the way. Was their path the same? The first pilgrims weren’t carrying big backpacks filled to the brim with basic necessities. Instead, they likely had a nap sack of some sort and relied on the hospitality of the many churches or people’s homes along the way. They weren’t wearing fancy shoes or wearing athletic clothing. Most likely, they were wearing clothing made of wool. I hope the weather was cooler for them. I started having my backpack sent ahead for this route specifically. Some pilgrims feel it’s cheating to send your pack ahead and they look down on those who choose to do it. Quite frankly, it’s a pleasure not to carry a heavy pack up and down the Primitivo route. We do a fair amount of climbing and it’s much easier on my back and knees (and dodgy left ankle) if I just have a day pack on my back. I wonder what the ancient pilgrims think of us now, seeing people carrying their Osprey or Deuter packs strapped to the backs. Is it all necessary? We spend a great deal of time discussing what is best to bring — the best socks, the best shoes, the best shirts, etc. Were there similar discussions among the early pilgrims? “Which is best, this wool tunic or this other one? How about shoes? Sandals?” Yeah. They didn’t have much clothing (or REI) to choose from. As for me, I’m happy to send my pack ahead. I tend to enjoy the route more if I’m not lugging 10 kg of stuff on my back. I’m not as cranky. I don’t sigh as much if I see a long climb ahead of me. Ok, I still sigh but I grumble less. Did King Alfonso grumble when he walked through the mountains? Hmmm... I wonder. Notes on Days 9, 10 Day 9 - Oviedo to Grado — 25 km Warm day to walk but cooler than the days before. I notice that Spain sleeps in on Sunday mornings. Even the livestock were especially chill in the morning. I broke a glass at a small cafe during my morning break. All I could say was, “Lo siento.” The woman was incredibly kind to me about it, as if it happens all the time. I doubt it. I’m probably the only person to break a glass in 5 years. It’ll be a story they tell everyone in town. “An American woman...” Grado was a lively town — small outdoor market, people out and about eating and drinking lots of Sangria. I enjoyed a nice glass of sangria, along with croquets. Day 10 — Grado to Salas - 20 km The day started cloudy but the sun came out for a few hours, long enough to make us very hot and sweaty. At this point, we are starting to see more climbing and descents. The trail took us through many wooded areas, some with rocky paths while descending, making it even loads more fun (harder). Good thing I have trekking poles. Otherwise, I’d still be trying to walk down the rocky paths, one meager step at a time. With the heat of the afternoon, it was great to stop at a stream and put my tired feet in the cold but refreshing water. It just felt amazing. Salas is a small, quiet town. For a Monday afternoon, not much is happening other than people grocery shopping. Most of the shops are closed, much to my dismay. I’m in search of a poncho due to the rain in the forecast. My raincoat won’t be sufficient, unfortunately. However, I may just have to deal with it. Tomorrow... Tineo. And then a decision about the Hospitales route. While on my first Camino in 2016, I saw a man determined to finish the Camino Frances. He was injured, walking with crutches, and hobbling along. You could see the look of determination on his face. One step further. Just one step. I sincerely hope he made it.
It takes a great deal of determination, stubbornness, and perseverance to walk the Camino. I’ve had days so far, where I’ve questioned why I’m doing it. Especially on days where the temps are high or days where the rain won’t stop or the climb just keeps going. Walking gives you plenty of time to contemplate this trek. Why am I here? Why did I choose to do this? Well... I’m not exactly sure other than it gets under your skin and you just want to do it. It could be the life on the Camino. It’s a rather simple endeavor: Get up. Pack your bag. Start walking. Stop and rest. Walk some more. Get to your destination. Shower. Wash clothes (if necessary). Eat. Rest. Sleep The next day, you get up and do the same thing. If I’m feeling up to it, I’ll walk around the town I’m in, but mostly I just eat and rest. People in in the Albergues along the routes I’m on are pretty quiet and keep to themselves. Makes sense. Bunch of introverts, perhaps. Most recently, I had a day where I was about to quit. It was hot. I was tired. And I just wanted to rest. But something inside of me, told me to keep going. I’m a stubborn person by nature and I don’t take quitting something lightly. I kept going. And I’ll keep going. Notes on Days 6, 7, and 8 Day 6 - Ribadesella to Villaviciosa — 38 km, only 20 km by foot Day 6 started on a bus to cut out several km. I’m glad it did. I don’t like to walk past 30 km in a day, especially when it’s hot. The day was rather uneventful. It was a lot of road walking (small, winding back roads) and watching out for horses who were being led to pasture. The amount of pilgrims on the trail is pretty minute at this point. There’s a few, but it isn’t like a pack of humans vying for beds at the next Albergue, like you see on the Camino Frances. These shorter days are like semi-rest days. I get to town early. Get to my room. Run errands (laundry, shopping for snacks). Grab lunch and then spend the rest of the time with my feet up. There’s a bit of laziness to the Camino. Depending on the town, sometimes I check out the sights. Other times, it’s just another old Spanish town. Not much to see other than a really old cathedral. When you walk all day, sometimes you don’t want to spend all your down time trotting around a city. Hence, the lazy factor comes into play. Day 7 Villaviciosa to Pola de Siero — 28 km Hot. That’s how to describe day 7. Temps in the 80s (ºF) without much shade. There were some shaded paths, which was nice but the bulk of the walking was along roads without any shade. Sun beating down. Before I started out, I made sure to bring extra water, but it turns out it wasn’t enough. I was on my last swig of water and still needed to walk 2.5 km. I was worried, I wouldn’t make it. Then out of the blue, an old woman called out — Agua, aqui! She filled my water bottle and sent me on my way. All I could muster was a simple “muchas gracias,” before heading on my way. The Camino provided. This was also the day where I split from the Norte route and headed down the Primitivo route. It’s way less traveled, even less than the Norte route, which is quite sparse in pilgrims right now. Tomorrow is Oviedo and a much shorter day, although the same heat wave. Start early and end early. That will be the key. Day 8 - 16 km Pola de Siero to Oviedo Still a hot day but at least it was a short one. You don’t want to be outside when the sun is beating down on you. Toured the Cathedral which, due to it’s stone walls, was quite cool and comforting. It’s a beautiful cathedral, showing how much money the Catholic Church has. Oviedo in many respects is like Santiago, just a little smaller. The town is alive with some sort of festival. Locals dressed in Asturian costumes line the streets playing instruments and selling goods. It’s quite a scene. The official Primitivo starts tomorrow when I leave Oviedo. My pack is being sent ahead, to take some of the stress off my hips and back. It’ll be nice to have less weight to carry. My hair is an issue. It’s long and when I’m in a dry place like Montana, it’s straight with a bit of wave.
Then I enter a humid region and all of a sudden, it’s thick and full of curls. I wish my mom had noticed this when I was young and getting home perms. Instead of sitting my hair rolled in curlers with stinky solution dripping down my head, all she needed to do was put me in a humid region and I’d have curly hair. There have been days where I felt like Monica in an episode of Friends where they visited the Caribbean and she looked like she had an Afro. I’m not quite there yet, but if my hair was shorter, I can see it happening. I know that the Camino isn’t a beauty contest but there are days where I’d like to tell the Albergue host that I don’t normally look this way — sweaty, red faced from the heat, and sporting crazy hair. I’ve wondered if I should show them a picture of how I normally look so they aren’t so scared or concerned when I walk through the door. But then again, when they see me, I usually get the bottom bunk. They must feel sorry for me. A few days ago, I saw a young Korean woman using a blow dryer to do her hair. I guess she didn’t get the memo on the whole “not a beauty contest” thing. To me, a blow dryer is on the non-essential list. But for her, she couldn’t leave home with out it. I saw her later one day, after a full day of walking and her hair looked perfect. Must have been because of the hair dryer. Point taken. So, I’m adjusting to my new head of hair, curls and all. I might miss it when I get home. Notes on Days 4 and 5 Day 4 - Colombres to Llanes Day 4 for some reason was rather difficult and I don’t understand why. It was a shorter walking day but it ended up being a painful one. My legs and feet were killing me and I developed a blister on one of my toes. Good thing I have Compeed. Despite this, the views along the coast were stunning and it was a lovely day for walking. The end of the day was spent massaging my legs and feet. I use my trekking poles to help rub the muscles and it works well. Stretching is also key, I’m finding out. I don’t stretch as often as I should at home but here it’s becoming a lifesaver and a daily ritual. Day 5 - Llanes to Ribadesella Day 5 started better — less pain in my legs and feet (hallelujah!) but I walked for 3 hours before finding a cafe to stop at. All the towns I walked through were closed — no one in the houses, not a soul around. It was almost like being on the Walking Dead. Is there anyone around? Am I the only human left? I know I haven’t been keeping up the news but I thought I’d hear about an apocalypse. At least there were a couple of other pilgrims around, so I knew I wasn’t crazy. But today, I had to say goodbye to a couple of new friends, which was sad in a way. At this point, we’re off in different directions. One is going home. One is finishing the Norte and I’m jumping ahead so I can get to Oviedo by Saturday. Such is life on the Camino. After walking for 3 days, it feels like a lifetime. I have to remind myself that I have another 18 days to go before I reach Santiago. 18 days. I just had to start on the Norte route, didn’t I.
Places to stay along the route vary and I’m finding that the Norte route has less Albergues and more hotels. The Albergues are the cheapest option but sometimes you can find a reasonable pension to stay at. Part of the Albergue charm is that you are with other pilgrims and it’s a social atmosphere. The downside... you sleep in bunk beds in large rooms with many other pilgrims. With that comes all the reality of humans — farting, snoring. The past 2 nights I have stayed in Albergues. Each night there was a loud snorer. Loud. Even with earplugs in, I heard every nuance of his snores. Some people snore and it may last an hour or two. No, this person snores the entire night. Yes, I believe he has sleep apnea, but I’m not a doctor, so am unable to diagnose him. Tonight I’m staying in a pension, a cheap hotel of sorts. I have my own room with a private bath. It’s a little luxury and I’m willing to pay for it. The first three days have been interesting. I started in Santander and took a train to a town called Mogro, which cut about 12 km, so I only walked about 20 km. It was an uneventful day in that it was mainly walking on roads, through small towns. I kept walking ahead or behind the same French couple. The day ended in a picturesque town of Santillana Del Mar. Upon arriving in town, it was full of tourists in the streets visiting little shops and the Altamira cave museum. There was a museum of human torture, that I passed by but chose not to visit. A little too macabre for me, though probably interesting. Day 2 was a lovely day of walking. Marked with views of the Atlantic Ocean and farms, the trek took me along winding country roads. Sounds of roosters waking everyone up, baaing sheep, mooing cows, and heehawing donkeys, along the smells that come with livestock rounded out the senses. “Fresh country smell,” is what my grandpa used to say, according to my mom. Some days, I can do without the smell of manure. Yesterday was one of those days. At the start of day 2, it seemed as if everyone in Spain, except for the pilgrims and a few old farmers, were asleep. It was a lazy Sunday morning, a walk in the park, as my cross country coach would say to me before a meet. Yeah. This is a bit more than a walk in park but I keep reminding myself that it isn’t a race and I can take my time. A bed is waiting for me a the end of the day, providing I make it to my destination. Sometimes I need a little push and perhaps a cafe con leche (or Coca Cola) before I can muster up the energy to keep going. Day 3... today. I’m sure the views were spectacular. However, due to the constant rain, we couldn’t see much. I spent most of the day walking with a French Canadian woman and a British man. It was quite pleasant, to share in some misery and the joy of finding a short cut and a place to have a quick lunch. I was very happy to get to my room for the night where I could take off my wet clothes and feel like a human again. It turns out my “waterproof” North Face jacket isn’t so waterproof after all. Perhaps, “water resistant” is a better description. Maybe North Face and other companies should have their products tested by those on the Camino. We brave the elements each day, for several days at a time. We know which products hold up and which ones, well, should stay home. Tomorrow brings another full day of walking. I hope my shoes dry out and that the weather is less rainy.
We all have a catalyst or a reason to walk the camino. Coupled with this, we all have a movie, book, or story that compels us to take the first step.
Mine is the movie, The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, written and directed by Ben Stiller, based on a 1920’s short story. It might seem like an unlikely choice since most pilgrims choose The Way (movie by Emilio Estevez) or The Pilgrimage (book by Paulo Coehlo). Both are good in their own right but they didn’t give me the extra push I needed to get off my seat and head to Spain. In 2016, I walked the camino for the first time, taking the Frances route from Leon to Santiago. My initial reason to walk was because my husband couldn’t due to his multiple sclerosis. However, I would be lying if I said that was the only reason. Taking time away from my family to embark on a pilgrimage is a selfish act. I walked for myself as well. In 2016, I turned 40 and I felt unsure about my future. Perhaps it was a mid-life crisis. Instead of purchasing a sports car, I went to Spain. Up to this point, our lives centered on the kids, grad school (both Joe and I), and work. Sure, we traveled and moved around quite a bit, meeting many amazing people along the way, but we were in a perpetual state of just trying to keep our heads above water. Looking back, we experienced much in a short amount of time. I married young at age 24. By age 29, I had two kids. At age 33, I underwent open heart surgery to repair a congenital heart defect. Also during this time, we managed Joe’s diagnosis of MS, the death of my mom and step father, and a child with physical and mental challenges. By the time I reached 40, I needed the camino. In 2013, we watched The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. In this movie, I saw part of me aching for adventure while also identifying greatly with the character (introvert, daydreaming). For so long, the need for travel and seeing the world was not met. It took another couple of years before I gathered up the courage (and money) to go. That first step on Leon was quite possibly the hardest. I started the camino alone but by days end, I found amazing women with whom to walk and share the journey. Each day, I experienced déjà vu and had an overwhelming sense that I was supposed to be there. In a couple of weeks, I’m headed out for my 2nd camino, starting along the Camino Norte and then joining the Camino Primitivo. Again, I will take the first step alone. I fully acknowledge that this is a selfish act and I thank my husband and kids for understanding my need to do it. They each have their own journey (or pilgrimage) ahead of them and I will support them when it’s their time. For now, I feel a pull to head back to Spain. What awaits me? More walking, café con leche, and wine. And whatever else the camino provides. Choosing the right stuff for the Camino can be a daunting proposition. Ask anyone who has walked the Camino what shoes and socks they prefer and you’re likely to get 100 different answers. Shoe preferences range from trail runners to hiking shoes to sandals. Which brands? All of them. Sock preferences get even more crazy with people suggesting SmartWool, Darn Tough, and various other brands. The key to socks, it seems, is to make sure they aren’t cotton. And then there’s the question of what clothing to wear and how much to take with you. Do I wear a skort? Skirt with tights? Yoga pants? Hiking pants? Leggings? And what about shirts? Short sleeve, long sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, crew neck, v-neck, scoop neck, button down - the choices are endless. Perhaps men have an easier time choosing their clothes. From already walking one Camino, I know what type of clothing and shoes to take or at least I thought I did. For the past month or so I’ve been second-guessing myself about my clothes. It could be I have too many hiking and yoga pants to choose from. Can one have too many yoga pants? (If you’re a woman, no you cannot have too many). To determine which clothes and shoes to take, I wear the clothing and shoes while walking, hiking, or teaching. That way, I know which are the most comfortable and will hold up well. The pants making the cut have been narrowed down to 4-5 pairs, which will end up being 2-3 pairs by the time I leave. Recently, I’ve chosen which shoe will walk the Camino — La Sportiva trail runners. My husband calls them my “sriracha shoes.” They certainly stick out but at least they're comfortable. The Camino isn't a beauty contest. My best advice -- keep things simple and light. I look at my calendar and there's a date staring at me.
May 25 That's the day I start walking the Camino Norte from Santander. After about 6 days on the northern route, I'll pick up the Camino Primitivo and follow this path to Santiago. The Primitivo route is the oldest of all the routes -- the original and most challenging. Am I ready? Well, as I write this, I'm sitting in a kitchen waiting for my students to finish setting up for their dinner tomorrow night. It seems as though teaching college this term has taken up most of my free time. Well and then we just emerged from a winter that was bitter cold and very snowy. Getting the motivation to walk in subzero weather on icy/snowy sidewalks proved to be difficult. So here I am, less than 7 weeks out from walking the camino and no, I'm not ready. But am I worried? Maybe a little. It will be challenging. So now is the time to hunker down and get moving and maybe get creative with the training. The rainy, muddy spring in Montana should prepare me well for a potential rainy May on the camino. Now it's time to continue walking. Oh and make sure I keep up with grading. Buen Camino! It has been several months since I completed the Camino Frances and there hasn’t been a day since when I don’t think about that journey. I especially thought about it this morning when I decided to walk to work instead of driving the 3 1/2 miles through a thriving community. It was a cool, sunny morning with the town waking up and get their day started. Familiar sights were abound — college students biking to campus to take their finals, people waiting for the bus to bring them to campus or to work, and many vehicles passing me by. I walked by the people waiting for the bus and wondered, “why don’t they just walk?” Oh silly me, I’m the weirdo who would rather walk than take public transportation. Before leaving my apartment, I put on my trusty backpack. I had a moment of realization that I’m oddly attached to it. I don’t always use it but I know where it is at all times. Right now, as I write this, it is sitting 2 feet away from me. I will leave it alone today, locked in my office, where it will be safe and sound. Today my pack was filled with a laptop, work papers, lunch, and extra pair of shoes (of course). It was almost as heavy as when I used it to carry clothing and essentials in Spain. Adjusting the straps and getting it just right was a familiar feeling. The ritual of waking up, getting dressed, eating a light breakfast, and putting on my pack was enough to transport me back to Spain. Although, this time the end of my journey this morning would be my office and I wouldn’t be logging 25 kilometers. Walking, to me, not only provides much needed exercise by a chance to clear my head and think about the day ahead of me. Some people prefer a good run. I prefer a good walk. When I was walking the Camino, I had several moments of deja vu. Upon reflecting back on The Way, I can pinpoint when I either felt I had been in a particular place before or I was in the right place at the right time. I’m not usually cognizant of these feelings but during my trip, I was profoundly aware of them. I’ve always felt that my entire life has been a journey of sorts. I’ve lived in several places and worked in several jobs. And along my life’s journey, I have always felt I met certain people for a reason — like I’m supposed to know these people and stay in touch with them. Or I learned valuable things from them to take with me to my next stop. And walking the Camino … this was just another part of my life’s journey. I was supposed to be there and meet many different people from all walks of life. I still haven’t figured out the specific “purpose” of my Camino. Maybe it was to “find” myself, but I like to think I already know who I am. Or perhaps I needed a challenge and confidence boost. That seems more likely than anything. However, what I know is that I am currently working in a place and in a job where I feel I’m in the right place at the right time. Maybe the walk this morning helped me realize this. What I do know for sure is when I got to my office this morning, I had an overwhelming feeling of “I needed that.” I needed a good morning walk to clear my head and get prepared for work. My camino continues. I posted many (many!!) photos on Facebook and Instagram, but here's a gallery of even more photos of the trip. |
About Marcy I wear many hats. First, I'm a wife to an amazing husband, Joe. Second, I'm a mom to 2 incredible kids, Caitlynn and Miles. Professionally speaking, I am a chef, dietitian, and writer working as an instructor in Hospitality Management at Montana State University in Bozeman. Photos: See InstagramMarcy's other Site |