After walking for 3 days, it feels like a lifetime. I have to remind myself that I have another 18 days to go before I reach Santiago. 18 days. I just had to start on the Norte route, didn’t I.
Places to stay along the route vary and I’m finding that the Norte route has less Albergues and more hotels. The Albergues are the cheapest option but sometimes you can find a reasonable pension to stay at. Part of the Albergue charm is that you are with other pilgrims and it’s a social atmosphere. The downside... you sleep in bunk beds in large rooms with many other pilgrims. With that comes all the reality of humans — farting, snoring. The past 2 nights I have stayed in Albergues. Each night there was a loud snorer. Loud. Even with earplugs in, I heard every nuance of his snores. Some people snore and it may last an hour or two. No, this person snores the entire night. Yes, I believe he has sleep apnea, but I’m not a doctor, so am unable to diagnose him. Tonight I’m staying in a pension, a cheap hotel of sorts. I have my own room with a private bath. It’s a little luxury and I’m willing to pay for it. The first three days have been interesting. I started in Santander and took a train to a town called Mogro, which cut about 12 km, so I only walked about 20 km. It was an uneventful day in that it was mainly walking on roads, through small towns. I kept walking ahead or behind the same French couple. The day ended in a picturesque town of Santillana Del Mar. Upon arriving in town, it was full of tourists in the streets visiting little shops and the Altamira cave museum. There was a museum of human torture, that I passed by but chose not to visit. A little too macabre for me, though probably interesting. Day 2 was a lovely day of walking. Marked with views of the Atlantic Ocean and farms, the trek took me along winding country roads. Sounds of roosters waking everyone up, baaing sheep, mooing cows, and heehawing donkeys, along the smells that come with livestock rounded out the senses. “Fresh country smell,” is what my grandpa used to say, according to my mom. Some days, I can do without the smell of manure. Yesterday was one of those days. At the start of day 2, it seemed as if everyone in Spain, except for the pilgrims and a few old farmers, were asleep. It was a lazy Sunday morning, a walk in the park, as my cross country coach would say to me before a meet. Yeah. This is a bit more than a walk in park but I keep reminding myself that it isn’t a race and I can take my time. A bed is waiting for me a the end of the day, providing I make it to my destination. Sometimes I need a little push and perhaps a cafe con leche (or Coca Cola) before I can muster up the energy to keep going. Day 3... today. I’m sure the views were spectacular. However, due to the constant rain, we couldn’t see much. I spent most of the day walking with a French Canadian woman and a British man. It was quite pleasant, to share in some misery and the joy of finding a short cut and a place to have a quick lunch. I was very happy to get to my room for the night where I could take off my wet clothes and feel like a human again. It turns out my “waterproof” North Face jacket isn’t so waterproof after all. Perhaps, “water resistant” is a better description. Maybe North Face and other companies should have their products tested by those on the Camino. We brave the elements each day, for several days at a time. We know which products hold up and which ones, well, should stay home. Tomorrow brings another full day of walking. I hope my shoes dry out and that the weather is less rainy.
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About Marcy I wear many hats. First, I'm a wife to an amazing husband, Joe. Second, I'm a mom to 2 incredible kids, Caitlynn and Miles. Professionally speaking, I am a chef, dietitian, and writer working as an instructor in Hospitality Management at Montana State University in Bozeman. Photos: See InstagramMarcy's other Site |