Days 17, 18: Inverness and Edinburgh
My last day in Inverness was spent doing boring things. Laundry. Packing. Eating all the food in the fridge. Okay, I planned my meals well so I wouldn’t have to gorge myself. Admittedly, I was sad to leave Inverness. Over the course of two weeks, I explored the area, more so than I would have if I had only spent just a couple nights here. In fact, there’s more to do, which will be saved for another trip. Inverness quickly became my favorite place in Scotland, a place I could see spending a month or two.  
 
One thing I did not anticipate with my trip to Edinburgh was for Taylor Swift to be here over the same weekend. The city is bustling with Swifties everywhere. I, not being a Taylor Swift fan (!!!), was completely unprepared for the insanity of the city when I arrived.
 
I emerged from of the train station, entering a city that is suddenly filled to capacity, bursting at the seams. Good thing I’ve been here before, so I don’t have to see the castle and a few other places. However, I have plans to see the Writer’s Museum and the National Museum of Scotland. Do Swifties go to museums? Will I run into them as I look at artifacts from good ole Robbie Burns? I can see it now, I have to fight my way through the exhibits, elbowing Taylor’s fans in the ribs.
 
I follow Sam Heughan on Instagram (I’m a fan of Outlander and Sam, is well, uh, nice to look at). Turns out he’s a Swifty. He’ll be in town this weekend for one of the concerts. Maybe I’ll elbow him in the ribs as I make my way through the National Museum.
 
Wish me luck.
 
Note to self: Don’t be too mean to the Swifties.  
 
Days 19, 20: Edinburgh
The massive crowds around Old Town were a bit daunting. I avoided most of Old Town and instead,  headed to the free museums – The National Museum of Scotland and the Writer’s Museum. The National Museum is huge and overwhelming at first, so I suggest having a game plan. I focused on Scottish history, bypassing the exhibits of artifacts collected from around the world (mainly from indigenous peoples, including ones from North America).
 
If you like literature, it’s fun to see the Writer’s Museum, which showcases the lives of Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. As I browsed the Robert Louis Stevenson exhibit, I remembered a poem my Grandma Cook read to me on occasion when I was a child. I loved when she read to me, because she would get animated. I could hear her voice reciting one of Stevenson’s poem, “The Swing.” It’s a simple poem, but one that pops into my head every so often, reminding me of my grandmother.
 
How do you like to go up in a swing,
   Up in the air so blue?
Oh, I do think it the pleasantest thing
   Ever a child can do!
 
Up in the air and over the wall,
   Till I can see so wide,
Rivers and trees and cattle and all
   Over the countryside--
 
Till I look down on the garden green,
   Down on the roof so brown--
Up in the air I go flying again,
   Up in the air and down!
 
I ended my evening with a whiskey tour. I am not a fan of whiskey, especially Scotch, but I wanted to see if I could tolerate at least one type. I barely tolerated the six whiskey’s I tried, with only one I would entertain drinking again. It was a good experience, however, which ended with a tasting menu, where I met a few fellow Americans. This made the dinner even more enjoyable, offering an excellent way to end a long trip. Slàinte mhath!
 
My trip is coming to an end and I’m ready to head home, refreshed and ready for my next chapter.

​Days 14, 15: Inverness
 
The last couple of days have been restful, which is what I wanted with this trip. It has given me time to get a little writing done (I write books – a new development in my life) and to plan for my return home. Work awaits, although the summer life of an academic is quite nice. Not sure I could go back to a regular work schedule. I’ll take a professor’s schedule any day.
 
Returning home after a long trip is bittersweet. I love traveling and exploring new places. But I also love coming home. I’ll soon come home to my comfortable bed, which is a welcome sight after sleeping on a back-breaking mattress for the past two weeks. As I write this, I have three more nights on this bed before heading to Edinburgh. Three more nights of lower back pain. Oh joy.
 
I also miss my young adult kids, who happen to live with me. It’s good for me to get away and travel solo but there were times I wished either (or both) of them were with me. They are both great travel companions, willing to see the sights and have fun. I owe my son another Camino (the Portuguese route, perhaps?), so I’m sure we’ll be back in Europe soon enough. As for my daughter, she’s not much of a Camino person, but she would be up to meeting us at the end in Santiago and then traveling after that.
 
Oh, and I’m officially done driving in Scotland. Yay! I got the hang of it quickly, I might add. Each day I drove, I grew more confident in my ability to stay on the correct side of the road. Although the roundabouts here still freak me out to a certain extent, especially the ones in the city. It’s like all your senses need to be on alert.
 
Tomorrow is a bus trip to the Isle of Skye. It’ll be cold and rainy. Sigh.
 
Note to self: Soak up the sun today.
 
Day 16: Isle of Skye
 
Long day but worth it despite the rain. I took a bus tour to the Isle of Skye, which happens to be the second most visited place in Scotland after Edinburgh. It’s the beginning of June and it’s evident tourists are flocking here by the droves. What pulls everyone to this place? Nature. The sea. Wildlife. The mysticism of the area.
 
I would like to go back at some point to see more Isle of Skye or to spend more time in some of the areas we visited briefly, but I would like to avoid the vast number of tourists clogging the roads, many of whom are unsure how to drive in Scotland. Now, I’m no expert in driving here, but I’ve learned a lot during this trip, along with the one in 2022. I certainly hope I drive better than the people I witnessed yesterday. Our tour guide/bus driver called them idiots and he wasn’t wrong. We witnessed two terrible car accidents yesterday (one really bad), which makes me not want to drive in Isle of Skye. I guess the best advice I have for anyone wishing to rent a car here is to do the following:
 

• Read up on driving in Scotland, especially on single track (lane) roads. Learn the rules of the road.
• Get over any fear of driving in a roundabout in a city. Locals just go for it, and you have to as well. I spoke to a Scot the other day about my disdain for the busy city roundabouts. He doesn’t like them either, but you can’t hesitate. Know which exit you need and go for it. Try to mind cars around you.
• Don’t panic. I’ve panicked on the road, but it’s normally a knee-jerk reaction to something I’ve done wrong. Like an “oh shit” moment.
• Practice makes… not perfect but more comfortable. If you’re a good driver in the US or elsewhere, you’ll be a good driver here. The more you’re on the road, the easier it gets and the easier it is for your brain to adjust to the differences.
• Relax. Go with the flow.

 
So far, I’ve driven in England, Scotland, and Ireland. This time around, since it had been two years since I had been here, I did a mental check. Am I ready? Uh, yep. Am I going to panic? Probably, but I’ll do my best not to. Initially saying “stay on the left” helped tremendously. Most likely, you’ll pick up a car in a city. Follow the traffic. When I picked up the car in Liverpool to drive to Inverness, it was rainy. Know how to use the windshield wipers before driving off. Good thing mine were set to automatic, which kept the fumbling to a minimum. I set up the navigation, got my music set, and then I just relaxed and went with the flow.
 
When it comes to city driving, I’ve driven in Liverpool, Edinburgh, Dublin, and Glasgow, but for some reason the thought of driving in London scares the shit out of me. I’m sure it’s akin to driving in NYC or Chicago, so I shouldn’t be that intimidated by it. Maybe I should approach it like Jason Bourne and imagine I'm in a car chase. Okay, maybe not. 
 
Anyhoo… renting a car is sometimes easier to get around in Scotland, so I recommend doing it, even if it’s just for a couple of days. 
 
Note to self: Keep the tears to a minimum as you say goodbye to Inverness.

Day 11: Inverness
Loch Ness Monster Sightings: Nada
 
I wasn’t going to mention Loch Ness or trying to catch a glimpse of this mythical creature, but I went to Dores, where the Nessie Hunter keeps an RV on the beach. There isn’t much happening in this little town, except for a nice beach, some trails, and the Nessie Hunter.
 
Alas, no Nessie sightings. I fear I shall walk away from this trip without seeing her. Bummer.
 
In case you’re wondering what Loch Ness is like, it’s a lot like the Great Lakes (albeit much smaller) or like the Finger Lakes in New York. Loch Ness was created from glaciers, just like the Great Lakes and Finger Lakes (and countless other lakes in the region), with cold water and shoreline full of rocks. It extremely deep for a lake (755 feet) and is the largest lake in Great Britain by volume. That’s pretty impressive.
 
One thing I noticed from walking along both the River Ness and Loch Ness is how clear the water is. This is not the case for the Great Lakes or many of the lakes and rivers in New York, which seem to have a fair amount of sediment and pollution. To think I swam in Lake Erie every summer as a child, without giving much thought as to why it was so murky. And then there were the times we saw trash floating by as we swam. Ugh. Gross.
 
I also visited Brodie Castle, which was occupied by the Brodie family until the 20th century when the National Trust of Scotland took it over after years of neglect and disrepair. If you’re ever in the area and like hearing the history of Scottish lairds, this will not disappoint. It’s amazing how much they’ve preserved including a library consisting of 6500 books, collected by the family over the years.
 
Note to self: Don’t ever swim in Lake Erie again.
 
Day 12: Inverness
Dolphin Sightings: 7-8
 
This morning started early. Earlier than I wanted it to. It doesn’t help that the sun rises at 4:30 here (sets at 10:00 pm – yeah – LOTS of daylight this time of year). I opened my window last night for fresh air, a decision I regret despite the cool breeze. Sunlight nudged me awake around 4:30, along with the sounds of every bird starting their day. Every bird. All of them.
 
A pair of noisy seagulls frequent Mr. Chips/Mr. Rice next door in search of food. Birds, as it seems, do not have a very discerning palate. If they did, they would go down the street to a better restaurant such as Jammy’s which serves good breakfast. Instead, these seagulls, which I have named Shawn and Gus, seem hellbent to squawk loudly each morning outside my window. I’m not one to harm animals, but there’s a part of me that would not mind seeing Shawn and Gus magically disappear.
 
Things picked up this afternoon with a 2 hour boat ride to see dolphins. And see them we did. It was a small fast boat with just 12 passengers. Lucky for us, a man who studies dolphins was along for the ride, giving us a lot of information about them (this isn’t the norm). We saw females and their calves feeding in the waters during low tide. I wanted them to come closer to the boat, but alas, they kept their distance. Still cool to see (and record).
 
I have the car for another couple of days and will make the most of it by visiting a few more places outside of town.
 
Note to self: Shut the window and get some sleep.
 
Day 13: Inverness
 
I love reading reviews on Google. Most reviews should be taken with a grain of salt, especially the bad ones. Although, I did write a poor review of a place I stayed in New York. It was a fair review. Not bad, but not good either. Anyhoo… Today, I ventured over to a nature preserve at low tide. If you’ve ever been near the water during low tide, you know the smell that accompanies it – a sea smell, which can be off-putting to some. Most reviews of the nature preserve are great, except for one describing the “dreadful smell from the river and stinking mud.” You’ve been forewarned about the smell during low tide. The rest of us are fine with it and will enjoy our time walking along the water.
​
I also visited Cawdor Castle and the Clava Cairns, both of which are highly recommended. Although, driving to Clava Cairns from the castle requires driving on single lane roads. If you are unsure how they manage this, it would be good to look up a video on YouTube on how to drive on single lane roads before actually doing it. In most cases, they cannot widen the road to accommodate two lanes because there’s usually a stone wall flanking either side of the road. Since the wall has been there since, uh, forever, we’re stuck with single lane roads. It makes for driving in Scotland even more adventurous.
 
Tomorrow is forest bathing and having a pint in a local pub.
 
Note to self: Be Mindful

Day 8: Inverness
Loch Ness Monster Sightings: Nada
 
Today the rain held off for the most part as I walked around town, trying to appear less like a tourist and more like someone who knows where they are going. I’ve figured out how to navigate the city without the use of my phone, which helps a great deal. Although, it’s still apparent I’m an American as soon as I open my mouth.
 
Oh, and if you ever read an article on Buzzfeed about ways to spot an American overseas, there’s always one European that says something like “Americans always tell you where they are from – city and state. Other people from the world just say the country they’re from.”
 
So, here’s the thing. Everyone knows I’m an American. I tried this tactic with a French woman I met in Liverpool. She asked, “Where are you from?” I said, “From the United States.” To which she responded, “Yes, but where in the United States?” And then I just said, “New York.” And then she responded, “Oh, lovely city.” See? She knew I was American and wanted to know where I was from exactly. This is often the case no matter where I travel in Europe. This is why most Americans just say the city and/or state they’re from.
 
Now, most of you know I do not live in New York City. I live in a small town in upstate New York, a few hours north of the city. But to everyone else in the world, when you say, New York, they automatically think New York City. It’s fine. I’m learning to let it go. From here on out I’ll be from NYC.
 
I finished a book I brought (American Demon by Daniel Stashower) and went in search of another one to read, visiting bookstore chain, Waterstones. I happen to be the odd American woman who prefers to read historical non-fiction, as opposed to fiction. I normally get odd looks from men as I peruse the history section of the store, looking past the numerous books on Churchill and WWII in search of good historical stories. Don’t worry, gents, I spent a lot of time over in the cookery section, too.
 
Tomorrow, I’m off to Fort George along the coast.
 
Note to Self: Adopt a New York accent to make it more believable.
 
Day 9: Inverness
Loch Ness Monster Sightings: Zilch
Dolphin sightings: 2
 
Rented a car, once again. As I drive, I’m constantly reminding myself – LEFT! The car provides me a way to venture to places outside of Inverness. My first visit was to Fort George this morning. It’s an impressive fort built in the 1700s and is still in use today as a military compound, which becomes apparent as you walk past young men on patrol, carrying a weapon. I’m not sure what they are protecting the fort against, and I refrained from asking. Are they afraid of an uprising?
 
The views from the fort are quite impressive. Dolphins swam in the water below and I did my best to capture it on my lowly camera. On Friday, I will be in a skiff on the water and should have a better view of dolphins, so all is not lost.
 
My sightseeing continues tomorrow, but not by car. I will be taking a bus and boat ride around Loch Ness. I’m not giving up on spotting Nessie. She is out there. Hiding in the depths of a large lake. I will summon her tomorrow.
 
Note to self: Bring treats for Nessie. She likes licorice.
 
Day 10: Inverness
Loch Ness Monster Sightings: Nope
 
Today was a trip on Loch Ness and to Urquhart Castle via bus and boat. There are no shortage of stories of the Loch Ness Monster, with a few people claiming to have seen a hump in the water a couple weeks ago. The folklore surrounding the monster dates back to the 4th century with a man claiming to have been attacked by a monster and the legend began. Now, no one knows what this monster looks like. The depictions of it look like a type of dinosaur that survived the extinction, while others think it’s a whale of some sort or a giant eel. I’d like to think of it as a dinosaur as opposed to an eel. Eels freak me out (slithery, slimy).
​
But no sightings of the monster today while we were on the water. I kept watch, paying close attention to the water and looking for any signs of a giant monster living below. Even though my boat ride ended without a monster sighting, the ruins of Urquhart Castle picked up my spirits.
 
The castle, now ruins, stands on the shores of Loch Ness. It was once a mighty castle and home to many legends of Scottish history (Robert the Bruce, anyone?). I will be stopping here again on Tuesday on the way back from a bus tour of the Isle of Skye. I took in as much as I could in the 45 minutes we had to spend there, including a peak into a prisoner cell, which did not seem all that fun. It was not a cozy abode and would probably have a poor rating on Airbnb. I can imagine someone writing, “It was cold and damp with a musty smell. I’m not even certain there’s a way out. If I could give it zero stars, I would.”
 
Off to another castle tomorrow.
 
Note to self: Aldi has dried pasta. I repeat Aldi has dried pasta.
 

Day 4: Liverpool to Inverness
Holy Mary Mother of God. Rain. Lots of Rain. So much rain that it shut down train lines, cancelling my trip to Inverness. I’m quick on my feet, though and I rented a car right away. Glad I did. A lot of people were stuck trying to find alternative transportation or trying to extend their stays in Liverpool.

When I got to the car rental agency in Liverpool, I was told it would only by about 10 minutes. I was there for about 90 minutes. The first vehicle they tried to give me was a manual, despite requesting an automatic. Even if I could drive manual, I’m not about to do so while driving on the other side of the road.
 
So, they scrambled and found me an automatic -- a Mercedes. SCORE! I drove the 7 hours to Inverness in luxury. Quite lovely, I might add. It was the same model I drove in Ireland 2 years ago, so at least I knew the weird little quirks with the vehicle.
 
After a long day of driving and eating fast food (KFC!!!!), I finally made it to Inverness. My home for the next 2 weeks is a small flat that reminds me of a tiny home, based on how it is laid out. At least I can stand up in the bedroom and I don’t have to climb a ladder to get to it. But it is small. Or shall I say “cozy?” It has a washer/dryer and dishwasher. I shouldn’t complain too much. Those are luxury items when traveling.
 
Tomorrow, I return the car and explore the city. Being here once before helps me since I kind of remember where things are located. Looking forward to getting a little work done while enjoying Inverness.
 
Note to self: Find good fish and chips.

Days 5 and 6: Inverness
Loch Ness Monster Sightings: 0
 
My first night in Inverness did not elicit much sleep, which led to a very sleepy day. I did, however, walk around town a bit after returning the car. Oh, and I looked like a complete fool returning the car at the airport. I’ll get over my idiocy at some point. We all make mistakes.
 
After a day of relative peace and quiet, the next day was lovely day full of sunshine. Locals and tourists littered the streets, popping in various shops and restaurants around town. I visited the Botanical Garden and walked along the River Ness for most of the morning.
 
I even stopped in at an antique shop, musing at the weird oddities for sale. That’s one reason I go to antique stores – to find the weird and wild things people are selling. I was disappointed not to find any creepy dolls for sale, but I found a pair of cat statues that had their own peculiarity to them. Of course I took a photo of them. Why wouldn’t I? I need to print a book of all my weird findings and put captions on them. Hmmm….
 
Tomorrow, I’m headed to a pub nearby and to see where the River Ness meets the ocean. Sounds exciting, I know. It’s supposed to be cool and rainy, but it doesn’t matter.
 
Note to self: Stretch your legs.

Day 7: Inverness
Loch Ness Monster Sightings: Nil
 
After shopping at various supermarkets in England and Scotland (along with Ireland, Spain, and France on other trips), I’ve come to realize that Americans are spoiled when it comes to shopping for food.
 
I’ve lived all over the US and I can say, without a doubt, we are spoiled. I didn’t realize it until this trip, however. The grocery stores in France are lovely and full of a variety of foods, so I think they are spoiled, too. However, it’s the stores here in Britain that leave me wanting more. I’m staying in an Airbnb for my 2 weeks here. This means, I cook for myself to reduce the reliance on eating out. There are 2 fast food restaurants next door – Mr. Chips and Mr. Rice, both of which do not inspire much confidence that they are any good. I’m assuming they are owned by the same person, Mr. Food, perhaps. When looking for good places to eat, be mindful of the name. Adding a Mr. in the name does not evoke a sense of high quality and based on the online reviews, this seems to ring true.
 
There are 2 grocery stores within walking distance of my flat, both of which are German-own, Aldi and Lidl. Aldi is in the US and many people are familiar with them. Lidl is similar to Aldi in terms of price and layout. Both of which are centered on bargain prices.

Here’s my issue … I cannot find what I want to cook. I go in with a game plan, a list of ingredients and end up changing my whole plan on the spot.
 
Oh, you wanted Italian sausage. Nope, sorry. We have Scottish sausage. Will that do?
Dried pasta? Beans? Rice? Hmmm… go somewhere else, perhaps? 
 
Since we traveled here in 2022, I knew the issue with lack of spices available, so I brought a bag of my own favorite blends – cajun, fiesta, Aleppo pepper, curry powder. I’m sure I can find these things here if I looked hard enough, but based on what’s available so far, I’m guessing I’d be shit out of luck.
 
Which brings me back to the spoiled aspect. I realize how spoiled I have been all these years living in America. Most grocery stores in the US carry the same basic products, thanks to nearly all of them being owned by Kroger. But even still, Bozeman, Montana, was home to my favorite grocery store by far, Town and Country. It was small, but had everything you could possibly want, including local meats. Local grass-fed beef? Yes, please!
 
So, here I am, living in Inverness, albeit for a short period of time, wishing I had more food options available. I’ve made do and can pivot rather quickly when it comes to cooking. Being a chef, has its advantages, I must say. I’ll just have embrace what’s available.
 
Note to self: learn to dodge the raindrops

I realize that this is a blog devoted to the Camino. However, Caminos can come in many forms – from a simple walking holiday to a massive trek through northern Spain. I’m considering my 3 week trip in England and Scotland to be a Camino of sorts. I’ve already logged many steps in my first few days and I’m definitely using this as time to reflect on life.
 
A big shift is occurring in my life. Joe and I are getting divorced. I will not use this blog to discuss the details of the divorce or to delve deeply into it. Frankly, it’s between Joe and I as to why we are calling it quits after 23 ½ years. Because of this, my future seems very uncertain. The only thing certain is my job at SUNY Oneonta. I’m very happy working there and plan to stay as long as possible. But it’s my personal journey that is now uncertain. I’m entering the unknown at age 48.
 
Day 1: New York to London to Liverpool
Trains, planes, and automobiles. To get me to Liverpool, took a drive to the Amtrak station in Albany where I took a train into NYC and then hopped on another train to the airport. The flight to London was uneventful, thankfully. We were in a Boeing plane, after all. There was a slight delay taking off to repair a cargo door, but otherwise, the plane made there in one piece.
 
Now, I was faced with navigating the trains in London. Okay, the Heathrow Express is easy. Quick. Takes you directly to Paddington Station. Yippee. Where I got a little thrown off was the Tube. I figured it out, eventually, after asking someone for help. My issue with the Tube is the number of steps you have to climb up and down to get to the right track. Normally I wouldn’t care too much but with luggage in tow, it was a pain in the ass.
 
And then there are the cobbled sidewalks in Liverpool that my poor suitcase bounced around on. I built up arm muscles today, dragging my suitcase here and there through London and Liverpool. ‘Twas fun and now I have sore arm muscles.
 
So far, Liverpool seems nice. I treated myself to a nice leisurely lunch while I waited to check into my apartment (hotel/apt). After not much sleep in the past 24 hours, except for the couple hours I snuck on the plane and the dozing off I did on the train from London, I am beat. It will be a very early night as exhaustion is getting the better of me.
 
Note to self: try not to scowl too much at people. I should be in a better mood tomorrow. You know, after I sleep for 12 hours.
 
Day 2: Liverpool
Never underestimate a good night’s sleep. I needed sleep. Lots of it. The weather today was quite lovely – sunny and warm. The city streets were alive with locals and tourists, all of whom were basking in the sunshine, taking it in before rain tomorrow. I went to the British Music Experience, a museum dedicated to, you guessed it, British music. It’s worth visiting, especially if you’re a music fan. It is lacking in a few things (like more modern music from the 2000s), but it was fun, nonetheless. I wondered, as I walked through the exhibits if the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame has most of the memorabilia, which might be why it seems rather sparse. It was good to see just how influential US music (Jazz, blues) had on the British music scene. USA! USA! USA! Even so, a whole exhibit dedicated to Buddy Holly and the Crickets surprised me until I read how influential they were on the Beatles.
 
After warming up in the sun and taking a cruise on the river, I’m back in my flat, resting. After yesterday’s jaunt, I’m still quite tired and have decided not to overdo it. I’ll be out tomorrow, going on a Beatles tour (Magical Mystery Tour – those clever Brits). Rain won’t deter me.
 
Note to self: try not to adopt a British accent. You’re American. They know it. You know it. Stick with your normal accent.
 
Day 3: Liverpool
Woke up with a message about my train trip to Inverness. Cancelled. Inclement weather is affecting the region. Instead of hopping around and trying to catch another train, I decided to rent a car and drive. I’ll be fine as long as I say to myself, “LEFT! Keep LEFT!” Oh good God. Good thing it’s mostly highway driving after I get out of Liverpool.
 
The city is awash in Beatles everything. Of course this isn’t surprising. I mean, they were born here (all 4 of them). As I sat on a tour bus driving around the streets of Liverpool, being shown the sites of childhood homes and notable Beatles places, I couldn’t help but wonder about the locals. Do they embrace it? Do they care? I’ve lived in touristy areas and had my fair share of “Oh here we go again. Tourists.” I was mindful of this as we drove through residential neighborhoods to catch a glimpse of John and Paul’s childhood homes. Do the neighbors care about all the foot traffic or the endless tour buses stopping by? Have they just accepted the fact they live next to John’s childhood home? 

Of course, for bragging rights, it would be fun to say, “Yeah I live next to the house where John Lennon grew up.” 

I felt a bit of this when we lived in Chicago about five blocks away from the Obamas. I drove by their home every day on my way to work. Before he ran for president, I didn’t pay much attention to it. However, after he was the nominee in 2008, police presence picked up and I had to alter my route slightly. Then there were the times I got caught behind his motorcade. You can’t pass it up, in case you’re wondering. I got used to it and makes for a good story. 

Tomorrow, I leave England to journey up to Scotland where I will park my butt for a few weeks. Hoping to get a little bit of work done in addition to sightseeing.

Note to self: LEFT!

And we did it. We did it. Yeah! (Cue Dora the Explorer dancing). 

Miles and I finished the Camino. It wasn’t easy. We essentially did 2 of the most difficult Caminos back to back without a rest day. For anyone that wants to do what we did — Leon to Oviedo via San Salvador and Oviedo to Santiago via Primitivo, do a rest day in Oviedo. Your body will thank you later. We finished the Salvador route and the next day started the Primitivo. It was a challenging first couple of days on the Primitivo both physically and mentally (more mentally for Miles). 

But we made it nonetheless. 

Here’s the Camino by the numbers:

Number of Americans met: a lot (more than any time I’ve done the Camino)
Number of Germans met: a lot (is anyone left in Germany?)
Number of times Miles got lost: 1 (he had to call me to figure out how to find his way back to the route; he downloaded the app after that)
Number of mud puddles I stepped in to prevent from falling: 2 and they were deep. 
Number of times I slid down a muddy hill to prevent falling: 1 
Number of bulls we came into close contact: 1. We slowly walked behind him as he was eating in his pasture. Made sure not to make much noise, too. 
Number of rainy (misty; pouring) days: on the Salvador and Primitivo, about 1/2 of the days were wet
Highest degree we walked in on the Frances during a heat wave: 92 degrees F. 
Number of sunburns: 2 for me. 3 for Miles.
Number of times we fell (tripped or slid): 1 for me and 1 for Miles
Number of Coca Colas consumed: a lot — especially by Miles
Number of vending machines Miles stopped at: all of them? 
Number of grumpy days for me: a few — sometimes you have to listen to music to take your mind off the icky rain, the blazing sun, or the fact your feet hurt so bad that you don’t think you can take another step
Number of nice dogs who came up to us wanting all the pets and love: lots 
Number of cats who ran away from us as we walked by: lots
Number of cats Miles fed: 1 (he fed his empanada to a hungry cat who wouldn’t leave him alone)
Longest day of walking: 31.03km. First day of the Salvador. It was a long day of walking and strenuous, too. 
Number of trains we took: 1 — we cut out about 10 km of the Salvador route. The day before was difficult to say the least and we just needed a break. Even walked along a busy highway for 8km to get to the train.
Number of busses we took (while on the route): 1 — Our last day on the Camino Frances, before Leon. We  walked to the next town (about 10 km) and took a bus to Leon. It was too hot. By 9:00 am, it was already 80 degrees. We were joined by many other pilgrims who just needed a break from the heat. 
One thing we could do without: the smell of cows. We walked past some stinky cows. 
One thing Miles could do without: noisy roosters in the morning waking everyone up at 5:00 am
Number of pilgrims who stay in O’Pedrouzo the night before reaching Santiago: about 2200 according to the guy who ran the hotel we stayed in. 2200. 

Best places we spent the night:
Albergue. We stayed in many nice Albergues and a few… well… they could use some help. For me the best one was the Albergue Ponte Ferreria run by a Dutch couple. What made it good — their hospitality. You felt welcome. I had actual veggies on my sandwich (do Spaniards not eat veggies?). We had a lovely breakfast. They played great music during the day. 
Pension: Pension 9 de Abril in O’Pedrouzo. Although, we stayed in a few really nice pensions, this was one of the best.  
Hotel: Hotel Nueva Allandesa in Tineo. They have an albergue, too but I splurged on a hotel room. Worth every penny. Had a bathtub, which is unusual in Europe. Yeah, my tired muscles were able to rest in a warm bath. And we had a lovely meal there. 
Apartment: It’s a tie. We rented a flat in Pajares while on the Salvador and it was the nicest place I’ve stayed in. Modern, up-t0-date. The electricity wasn’t on initially but they quickly came over and got it working. We got there after a long, stressful day of walking through rain, cold, and mud. Waiting for us was food in the apartment — snacks, coffee, milk, etc. And coming in as a tie is the apartment in Santiago. The lady running it was especially nice and helpful. Lovely, clean, cool (AC!) apartment. 

Camino Frances
Fromista to Leon
146,923 steps; 105.65 km 

Camino San Salvador
Leon to Oviedo
180,723 steps; 128.19 km

Camino Primitivo 
Oviedo to Santiago
468,970 steps; 337.33 km

​TOTAL
796,616 steps
571.17 km (354.9 miles)

I will do the Camino again but I’m going to wait a few years. My knee and hip are hurting and perhaps need a check by a doctor. Will Miles do another Camino? Who knows. He just might. 

Now, we’re off to Scotland and Ireland. 

I typically do not write about specific days. I find that type of Camino writing trite and pedantic. Instead I write about little nuggets that peak my interest like Miles’ love of vending machines.

However, a lot of people don’t know what the Camino is like. Here’s a brief synopsis of a typical day— wake up, brush teeth, pack bag, eat breakfast and then walk. Hopefully you have a place to stop for a break. Sometimes not (like yesterday when our first stop was at 20 km; or today when it was at 11km). Pilgrims usually stay in hostels called Albergues. They range in price and amenities. I’ve been adamant about staying in nice Albergues (clean, good facilities) or in private rooms (hotels, pensions). We’re a little spoiled right now. We’ve stayed in more hotels and pensions than Albergues. 
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There are times you come to an Albergue and everyone is quiet or talking amongst themselves. You’ll find people taking a nap, doing laundry, writing, reading, or just scanning their phone (this is Miles most days). But then there are times when the Albergue is alive. Yesterday, due to weather perhaps, electricity was out for most of the day. This meant that people had to entertain themselves without electronics (!). Early in the day, a group of Spanish men on horseback passed us on the trail. We met up again at the Albergue with their horses grazing in the pasture next door. The power was out but they drank many beers and pulled out a guitar. All afternoon the Albergue was filled with sounds of Spanish folk songs. The power came back on but the singing continued. 

This is one day of many. On the Salvador, we stopped at a pension that also had a bar. It was a Sunday. When we and the other pilgrims sat down to eat dinner, we were not alone. The whole town filled the space, playing cards and gossiping. It was a apparent that this is something they do every Sunday. We just happened to be in the most popular place in town. Who knew? Days like this remind you of the intimate nature of the Camino. We are entering a town for a night. On the Primitivo (and Salvador), it’s a small town where everyone knows everyone. Except you. Most of the time you are treated well and you are welcome. Then there are times when you feel like an outsider looking in, trying to understand the culture around you. 

Tomorrow, we’ll be gone from this small town and another group of pilgrims will stop by. 

​Onward and upward. 

Have I mentioned I miss my bed? No? That’s a whole other story. 

What is the allure of vending machines? I need to know. Miles gets very excited when he sees one and Spain has no shortage of them it seems. Every time we see one, he has to buy something. Anything. A cola. A waffle. Candy. 

It reminds me of a blonde joke (sorry to all the blondes out there). Here’s my best attempt to tell the joke via writing (it’s much funnier in person):
A guy sees a blonde at a vending machine. She puts in her coins, presses what she wants and starts to jump up and down. She repeats this a couple more times — puts in the coins, presses what she wants and jumps up and down, very excited. He finally asks her, “Why are you jumping up and down?” She replies, “I’m winning!” Cue the laughter. 

I doubt Miles views his treats from vending machines as “winning,” but based on how excited he is, I’m left wondering about my son. He’s not blonde, but still. Vending machines are quite interesting here. You can find all sorts of things for sale for a few euros — the typical candy, soda, and chips, but then you may see condoms, disposable masks, lighters, and most recently, we saw a vending machine selling raw meat. Yes. Raw meat. 

Keeping Miles fed was a concern of mine when we started this walk. He’s 17 — tall, thin and eats a lot. It was relatively easy when we were on the Camino Frances because of the many services available. I cannot say the same thing for the Camino San Salvador. Many towns lack bars (cafes) and grocery stores. We walked 50 km without a grocery store and when we finally came to one, it was more like a convenience store that closed at 3:30 pm. I was able to buy a couple of things to tide us over but it was slim pickings. 

On day 5 of our walk on the Salvador, we finally had a quality breakfast — cafe con leche and croissants. We even stopped at a town a couple hours later and had a great chicken sandwich. It actually had vegetables on it (very rare here). This was enough to get us through the rest of walking for the day. 

Miles, with his penchant for junk food, said the other day that he’s learning about Spain through junk food. He picks weird gummies, cookies, and other treats to fully understand Spanish culture? Hmmm….

He’s requested, upon our stay in Oviedo (a very large city), that we find a good place to eat dinner. I had to remind him that the Spanish eat quite late at 9:00 or 10:00 pm, just when we are going to bed. I promised I would scope things out and see what I can find. I may make us dinner since we’ll have access to a kitchen. Or maybe he can find a vending machine that has a full dinner for 2 euros. 

You never know what you’ll find in one. 

Bon Appetite! 

madI told Miles at the start of our journey that I tend to bumble my way through Spain. Or perhaps, it’s more like Forrest Gump my way on the Camino. Whatever it is, I tend to rely on the kindness of strangers to help me get through. This trip is no exception.

From the moment we arrived at the airport in Madrid, we’ve encountered many nice strangers to help us out, even when we didn’t think we needed it. It first started when waiting for our bus to Burgos (then to Fromista). There seemed to be much confusion at the bus depot in the Madrid airport as to which bus people needed to get on. Even Spaniards were confused. One guy called the bus company. He did not seem satisfied with the responses he received from the company. Good thing I’m not afraid to use my broken Spanish to ask strangers which bus they were waiting on. Two men helped us find our appropriate bus, with one even going as far as to make sure our bags were loaded properly and that we got on the bus. 

We found even more kindness from a host at an albergue who found Miles’ drivers license and a few other items he left behind. She was willing to drive it to us, but we were too far away. I don’t know if we’ll see his license again but she at least tried to get it to us. 

Today we decided to take a train for half of our walk. Long story short — I’m tired of walking downhill on slippery, muddy paths or through hilly cow pastures — we walked gingerly walked past a bull as he was eating grass yesterday (did not look at him and made no sudden movements). For the train, we spoke very poor Spanish to an older couple who were taking the same train to a different town. To get us on the train, the woman motioned to us and then made sure we got off at the right stop. I felt like my grandma was speaking through her — make sure Marcy and Miles get where they need to go. And getting off the train, we met a woman named Maria who helped us find a bar (cafe) to grab a bite to eat. 

Did someone tell them we were coming — Two Americans with very little Spanish trying to find their way around rural Spain? Are we on the news? In the paper? 

So, to all the Spaniards who are incredibly patient with a bumbling American and her son, I say thank you (muchas gracias!). There’s a saying that pilgrims like to say, “The Camino will provide.” It’s true but it isn’t the Camino that is providing, it’s spirit of the people here. That’s who provides. 

Perhaps that’s the real Camino. It isn’t just the walking, but it’s kindness of strangers and our interactions with each other. Some days, the walking is secondary, almost a nuisance. It’s those days where people make the Camino.