And we did it. We did it. Yeah! (Cue Dora the Explorer dancing).
Miles and I finished the Camino. It wasn’t easy. We essentially did 2 of the most difficult Caminos back to back without a rest day. For anyone that wants to do what we did — Leon to Oviedo via San Salvador and Oviedo to Santiago via Primitivo, do a rest day in Oviedo. Your body will thank you later. We finished the Salvador route and the next day started the Primitivo. It was a challenging first couple of days on the Primitivo both physically and mentally (more mentally for Miles). But we made it nonetheless. Here’s the Camino by the numbers: Number of Americans met: a lot (more than any time I’ve done the Camino) Number of Germans met: a lot (is anyone left in Germany?) Number of times Miles got lost: 1 (he had to call me to figure out how to find his way back to the route; he downloaded the app after that) Number of mud puddles I stepped in to prevent from falling: 2 and they were deep. Number of times I slid down a muddy hill to prevent falling: 1 Number of bulls we came into close contact: 1. We slowly walked behind him as he was eating in his pasture. Made sure not to make much noise, too. Number of rainy (misty; pouring) days: on the Salvador and Primitivo, about 1/2 of the days were wet Highest degree we walked in on the Frances during a heat wave: 92 degrees F. Number of sunburns: 2 for me. 3 for Miles. Number of times we fell (tripped or slid): 1 for me and 1 for Miles Number of Coca Colas consumed: a lot — especially by Miles Number of vending machines Miles stopped at: all of them? Number of grumpy days for me: a few — sometimes you have to listen to music to take your mind off the icky rain, the blazing sun, or the fact your feet hurt so bad that you don’t think you can take another step Number of nice dogs who came up to us wanting all the pets and love: lots Number of cats who ran away from us as we walked by: lots Number of cats Miles fed: 1 (he fed his empanada to a hungry cat who wouldn’t leave him alone) Longest day of walking: 31.03km. First day of the Salvador. It was a long day of walking and strenuous, too. Number of trains we took: 1 — we cut out about 10 km of the Salvador route. The day before was difficult to say the least and we just needed a break. Even walked along a busy highway for 8km to get to the train. Number of busses we took (while on the route): 1 — Our last day on the Camino Frances, before Leon. We walked to the next town (about 10 km) and took a bus to Leon. It was too hot. By 9:00 am, it was already 80 degrees. We were joined by many other pilgrims who just needed a break from the heat. One thing we could do without: the smell of cows. We walked past some stinky cows. One thing Miles could do without: noisy roosters in the morning waking everyone up at 5:00 am Number of pilgrims who stay in O’Pedrouzo the night before reaching Santiago: about 2200 according to the guy who ran the hotel we stayed in. 2200. Best places we spent the night: Albergue. We stayed in many nice Albergues and a few… well… they could use some help. For me the best one was the Albergue Ponte Ferreria run by a Dutch couple. What made it good — their hospitality. You felt welcome. I had actual veggies on my sandwich (do Spaniards not eat veggies?). We had a lovely breakfast. They played great music during the day. Pension: Pension 9 de Abril in O’Pedrouzo. Although, we stayed in a few really nice pensions. Hotel: Hotel Nueva Allandesa. They have an albergue, too but I splurged on a hotel room. Worth every penny. Had a bathtub, which is unusual in Europe. Yeah, my tired muscles were able to rest in a warm bath. And we had a lovely meal there. Apartment: It’s a tie. We rented a flat in Pajares while on the Salvador and it was the nicest place I’ve stayed in. Modern, up-t0-date. The electricity wasn’t on initially but they quickly came over and got it working. We got there after a long, stressful day of walking through rain, cold, and mud. Waiting for us was food in the apartment — snacks, coffee, milk, etc. And coming in as a tie is the apartment in Santiago. The lady running it was especially nice and helpful. Lovely, clean, cool (AC!) apartment. Camino Frances Fromista to Leon 146,923 steps; 105.65 km Camino San Salvador Leon to Oviedo 180,723 steps; 128.19 km Camino Primitivo Oviedo to Santiago 468,970 steps; 337.33 km TOTAL 796,616 steps 571.17 km (354.9 miles)
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About Marcy I wear many hats. First, I'm a wife to an amazing husband, Joe. Second, I'm a mom to 2 incredible kids, Caitlynn and Miles. Professionally speaking, I am a chef, dietitian, and writer working as an instructor in Hospitality Management at Montana State University in Bozeman. Photos: See InstagramMarcy's other Site |