Since leaving Oviedo, I’m officially on the Primitivo Route, which is the first or original pilgrimage to Santiago. Reported to be the path taken by Alfonso II of Asturias (mid 700s to mid 800s), the king left the capital of Asturias, Oviedo, and walked to Santiago.
Walking this route makes me wonder about King Alfonso and the first pilgrims. Often we are routed through small towns and along wooded paths with a stone wall lining the way. Was their path the same? The first pilgrims weren’t carrying big backpacks filled to the brim with basic necessities. Instead, they likely had a nap sack of some sort and relied on the hospitality of the many churches or people’s homes along the way. They weren’t wearing fancy shoes or wearing athletic clothing. Most likely, they were wearing clothing made of wool. I hope the weather was cooler for them. I started having my backpack sent ahead for this route specifically. Some pilgrims feel it’s cheating to send your pack ahead and they look down on those who choose to do it. Quite frankly, it’s a pleasure not to carry a heavy pack up and down the Primitivo route. We do a fair amount of climbing and it’s much easier on my back and knees (and dodgy left ankle) if I just have a day pack on my back. I wonder what the ancient pilgrims think of us now, seeing people carrying their Osprey or Deuter packs strapped to the backs. Is it all necessary? We spend a great deal of time discussing what is best to bring — the best socks, the best shoes, the best shirts, etc. Were there similar discussions among the early pilgrims? “Which is best, this wool tunic or this other one? How about shoes? Sandals?” Yeah. They didn’t have much clothing (or REI) to choose from. As for me, I’m happy to send my pack ahead. I tend to enjoy the route more if I’m not lugging 10 kg of stuff on my back. I’m not as cranky. I don’t sigh as much if I see a long climb ahead of me. Ok, I still sigh but I grumble less. Did King Alfonso grumble when he walked through the mountains? Hmmm... I wonder. Notes on Days 9, 10 Day 9 - Oviedo to Grado — 25 km Warm day to walk but cooler than the days before. I notice that Spain sleeps in on Sunday mornings. Even the livestock were especially chill in the morning. I broke a glass at a small cafe during my morning break. All I could say was, “Lo siento.” The woman was incredibly kind to me about it, as if it happens all the time. I doubt it. I’m probably the only person to break a glass in 5 years. It’ll be a story they tell everyone in town. “An American woman...” Grado was a lively town — small outdoor market, people out and about eating and drinking lots of Sangria. I enjoyed a nice glass of sangria, along with croquets. Day 10 — Grado to Salas - 20 km The day started cloudy but the sun came out for a few hours, long enough to make us very hot and sweaty. At this point, we are starting to see more climbing and descents. The trail took us through many wooded areas, some with rocky paths while descending, making it even loads more fun (harder). Good thing I have trekking poles. Otherwise, I’d still be trying to walk down the rocky paths, one meager step at a time. With the heat of the afternoon, it was great to stop at a stream and put my tired feet in the cold but refreshing water. It just felt amazing. Salas is a small, quiet town. For a Monday afternoon, not much is happening other than people grocery shopping. Most of the shops are closed, much to my dismay. I’m in search of a poncho due to the rain in the forecast. My raincoat won’t be sufficient, unfortunately. However, I may just have to deal with it. Tomorrow... Tineo. And then a decision about the Hospitales route.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
About Marcy I wear many hats. First, I'm a wife to an amazing husband, Joe. Second, I'm a mom to 2 incredible kids, Caitlynn and Miles. Professionally speaking, I am a chef, dietitian, and writer working as an instructor in Hospitality Management at Montana State University in Bozeman. Photos: See InstagramMarcy's other Site |